The Fujian tea ceremony, also known as Gong-fu cha or Kung-fu cha Gong Fu Cha), is a specific way of preparing tea -- specifically oolong, although sometimes used also for black teas. The process is considered inappropriate for the much more delicate nature of green teas.
Unlike the Chanoyu from Japan, in which the tea is almost, but not
quite, incidental to the ceremony, gongfu cha is very much about the
tea. Showy, tourist-oriented tea houses in big Chinese cities will
include many long, fanciful, but ultimately questionable stories
about why each step was created, giving each one names like "Dragon
Bows to the Water", but in reality the steps of the ceremony are
oriented toward extracting the best possible flavour from the brewing
process.
Equipment
For the ideal execution of this particular tea-brewing system, there
are several key components required:
A set of Yixing (Yi Xing) pots -- ideally of a small size (about 150 mL or 6oz.).
A good source of just-boiled water. (Black and oolong teas brew best in high temperatures.)
A drip tray to catch the water spilled during the brewing process.
Note that having an especially high-quality tea is not a prerequisite
to this brewing ceremony. A mediocre tea brewed properly will taste
better coming from the gongfu cha ceremony than will a high quality
tea brewed improperly.
Pots
The teapots used in this ceremony are best made from unglazed yixing clay, not porcelain. This is primarily because clay pots hold heat
for a long time, thus keeping the temperature even and high for a
long period of time. It also has the additional effect of melding the
flavours from previous brews with the current one as the oils in the
tea fill in the holes of the unglazed clay.
Ideally the pot should be small and paired with a second serving pot
to help evenly blend the tea flavour. The equivalent of pproximately
one teacup of tea is brewed at a time in this approach and the tea is
consumed from very small cups. This permits very fine control of
temperature vs. brewing time.
When such specialty pots are not available, regular-sized pots are
also usable, but they suffer from a lack of control over brewing
times and temperatures, reducing the quality of the ensuing tea as a
result.
Water
The water should be "just boiled" (about 98 degrees Celsius) for
oolong and black teas. It should be filtered of chlorine, salt and
other such treatments, but it should not be distilled nor
demineralised -- distilled/demineralised water results in very "flat"-
tasting tea. A constant supply of such water is needed for the
ceremony as the water is used to:
continually warm the implements, especially the brewing pot;
"wash" the tea;
brew the tea.
When the water is used to brew, the pot, whatever the size, is filled
to the brim and the lid used to sweep away any foam (considered very
unattractive in the tea) or floating tea leaves. Water is then used
on the closed pot to help keep its temperature up.
Drip tray
A drip tray is used for brewing the tea because of the constant use
of water to warm, wash and brew. An almost constant supply of water
spills over the pots and cups as the ceremony progresses and this is
caught by the drip tray to prevent it from spreading over the table.
In the absence of an actual drip tray, a bowl can be used instead.
The bowl must be big enough to contain the brewing pot (whatever its
size).
Surroundings
A suitable space must be provided. A table large enough to hold the
tea-making utensils, the drip tray, and the water is the minimum
necessary. Ideally the surroundings should be peaceful and condusive
to relaxation and socialisation. Incense, flowers and low, soft,
traditional music will all add to the ambience, as will songbirds.
Preparation
Water should be brought to a boil and transferred to some kind of
portable stove to keep it on the edge of boiling. The pots should
have their lids removed and placed on the drip tray. The cups and
aroma cylinders (the latter only if present) should be also placed
face-up on the drip tray.
The brewing pot is filled to the brim with hot water, its lid placed
on it, and then more hot water is spilled around the outside to raise
the temperature quickly and evenly. The water is then transferred in
turn to the serving pot, the aroma cylinders (if present) and finally
to the serving cups. This is done to bring the temperature up to
appropriate levels while washing out any dust which may have
accumulated in the utensils.
Tea is measured and placed into the brewing pot. The pot is filled
full of water and left for a short time (under thirty seconds) before
once again being emptied in turn into the serving pot, the aroma
cylinders and the serving cups. This serves to wash the tea of
unpleasant fragments which tend to leave the tea bitter and also to
help remove some of the tannins in oolong teas.
Brewing (first round)
The first round of brewing begins with filling the pot full of near-
boiling water. The pot is filled to the brim and excess foam and tea
leaves are simply swept aside by the lid before placing it firmly on
top. A little extra hot water poured over the top helps keep the
temperature high. The tea is brewed for approximately one minute and
then quickly transferred to the serving pot to mix it evenly,
avoiding uneven flavour from cup to cup. A narrow, metal filter can
be used to catch fine particles that would spoil the flavour of the
tea.
Serving with aroma cylinders
Once the tea is in the serving pot, it is transferred to the aroma
cylinders, filling them approximately 70% full. The serving cups are
then placed over the cylinders as lids and the assembly is turned
upside down, leaving the tea suspended inside the cylinders now
upside-down in the cup. The assembly is then placed on a small
serving tray and given to the tea drinkers.
When everybody has received their teacups and cylinders, the
cylinders are lifted from the cups, spilling their contents into the
serving cups. They are then held underneath the nose for appreciation
of the aroma. (A common technique is to hold the cylinders between
the hands under the nose and rolling the cylinder rapidly between the
hands.)
The tea is now consumed. Tea should not be sipped lightly in tiny
bursts. The cup should be emptied in at most two gulps. For maximal
impact, the tea should be swished around inside the mouth quickly to
bathe every part of the tongue, thereby activating all taste buds as
well as bringing the aroma to the back of the nose.
Subsequent brews
A quality oolong tea is good for anywhere from five to six brewings
with the best being traditionally the second and third. Each
subsequent brewing follows basically the same format -- a minute
brewing and transfer to the serving pot. The aroma cylinders are not
used in subsequent brews, however, and tea is served directly to the
serving cups as they are emptied.
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